Garage Builders in Minnesota

Size is the biggest factor, followed by sidewall height, the number and size of overhead doors and whether the building is insulated and heated. A slab with in-floor heat tubing costs more than a plain one, and site work like a long driveway or a lot of fill adds to it. A two-car garage and a heated shop with an RV bay are very different jobs. Tell us what you want to park and do inside, and we'll quote it for free.

Yes, when it's built for them. Posts set below the frost line keep frost heave from lifting the walls and jamming the doors, and the trusses are engineered for the snow load where the garage sits. Snow slides off a steel roof, so we put the overhead doors on the gable end or plan for where the snow lands. If the garage will be heated, insulation and vapor control keep the roof from sweating and dripping on your vehicles.

Yes, almost always. A detached garage or shop needs a building permit from the city in most of the metro, or from the township or county in rural areas, and the zoning code limits accessory building size, height and distance from lot lines. Shoreland rules add limits near lakes and rivers, and some cities and HOAs have rules on exterior materials. We check the code for your lot before we draw the building.

Yes. We insulate the walls and ceiling, add vapor control and a steel or wood liner, and lay foam board and in-floor heat tubing before we pour the slab. In-floor heat keeps the floor warm, dries snowmelt off vehicles and recovers quickly after the big door has been open. The slab is ready to connect to the heat source you choose.

Tall enough to clear the highest point with room to spare. Measure the camper's roof air conditioner, or the boat's windshield or tower while it sits on the trailer, and we set the door above that and raise the sidewalls to fit the door and its track. We also check the length so the door closes with the hitch inside.